Locs are a beautiful and versatile hairstyle, but keeping them healthy requires proper care and thoughtful styling practices. While it’s perfectly safe to style your locs, understanding which styles are appropriate for different stages of your loc journey is crucial. Whether you’re just starting out or have mature locs, this guide will help you navigate styling your locs safely and effectively.
Styling Starter Locs
What Are Starter Locs?
Starter locs represent the initial phase of your loc journey, where your hair begins the process of matting and locking together. This stage isn’t defined by the method used to start your locs but rather by the time period in which your hair starts to transform. Common techniques for starting locs include comb coils, two-strand twists, interlock, and freeform methods. Of these, comb coils are particularly delicate because they rely on your hair’s natural tendency to coil and eventually lock together.
Styling Considerations for Starter Locs
Styling starter locs requires careful consideration. Styling too early or too aggressively can interfere with the natural locking process, leading to slower formation or uneven locs. For instance, pulling your starter locs into tight styles like ponytails, braids, or updos can cause tension on the delicate coils, potentially preventing them from locking properly or even causing breakage.
It’s best to keep styling to a minimum during this stage, allowing your starter locs the freedom to form naturally. Opt for looser, low-tension styles if you must style your hair. Remember, the less manipulation, the better for the health and formation of your locs.
Styling Mature Locs
What Are Mature Locs?
Mature locs are fully formed, dense, and less prone to unraveling, typically occurring after 12-18 months. At this stage, your locs have settled into their shape and are more resilient to styling and maintenance.
Maintenance Schedule for Mature Locs
Maintaining mature locs involves regular upkeep to ensure they remain neat and healthy. Common methods include:
- Palm Rolling: Rolling the locs between your palms to keep them smooth and cylindrical. This is usually done every 3-6 weeks, depending on your hair’s growth rate.
- Interlocking: This method involves pulling the end of the loc through the root to tighten new growth. Interlocking can be done every 6-8 weeks.
Styling Mature Locs
Mature locs can handle a variety of styles, allowing for more creativity in your hair routine. Here are some popular styles and guidelines for maintaining them:
- Rope Twists/Two-Strand Twists: Twisting two locs together to create a rope-like appearance is a popular style. A good rule of thumb for wearing rope twists is to keep them in for about half the time of your maintenance schedule. For example, if you’re on a 3-week maintenance schedule, wear the twists for 1.5 weeks, then let your locs loose for the remaining 1.5 weeks. If you’re on a 6-week schedule, wear the twists for 3 weeks and keep them loose for the next 3 weeks. Keeping the twists in too long can lead to flattening of certain parts of your locs, which may stretch those sections and ultimately result in breakage.
- Loc Updos: Updos are a great way to protect your locs, especially in warmer weather. However, avoid wearing updos for more than 3-5 days at a time. Prolonged tension at the roots can lead to thinning and breakage, so it’s important to give your locs a break between styles.
Loc Extensions: Adding Length Safely
What Are Loc Extensions?
Loc extensions are synthetic or human hair pieces that are added to your natural hair to instantly create the appearance of long, mature locs. These extensions can be attached to starter locs or even mature locs to add length, fullness, or both.
Styling and Caring for Loc Extensions & Loc Re-attachments
While loc extensions can provide an immediate solution for those who want long locs without the wait, they require specific care to ensure they don’t damage your natural hair:
- Proper Installation: The key to maintaining healthy hair with loc extensions is proper installation. Extensions that are too heavy or attached too tightly can cause significant tension on your natural hair, leading to breakage, thinning, or even traction alopecia. It’s crucial to have them installed by a professional who understands the importance of balancing the weight and tension.
- Maintenance: Loc extensions should be maintained in a similar way to natural locs. Regular palm rolling or interlocking is necessary to keep the new growth neat and to prevent the extensions from slipping. However, be gentle, as excessive manipulation can weaken the connection between your natural hair and the extensions.
- Avoid Overstyling: Just like with natural locs, overstyling loc extensions can cause damage. Styles that pull on the roots or put extra weight on the locs should be limited. Additionally, wearing updos or rope twists for too long can lead to the same issues of flattening and stretching, which can compromise the integrity of both your natural locs and the extensions.
Braiding Over Locs: Why It’s Not Recommended
While some people may choose to braid extensions over their locs for versatility or a different look, this practice is not recommended. Braiding extensions over locs can cause several issues:
- Tension and Breakage: The weight of the added hair, combined with the tightness of the braids, can put excessive tension on your locs, leading to thinning or breakage at the roots. Locs are already a dense and thick hairstyle, and adding the extra weight of braids can strain the hair shaft and scalp.
- Disruption of the Locking Process: If your locs are still in the process of maturing, adding braids can interfere with the natural locking process, potentially causing uneven locs or even reversing some of the progress you’ve made.
- Scalp Health: Tight braids over locs can lead to scalp irritation, itchiness, and in some cases, traction alopecia, which is hair loss caused by prolonged tension on the hair follicles.
Instead of braiding over your locs, consider experimenting with styles that work with your locs rather than against them. Locs are versatile enough to be styled in many creative ways without the need for extensions.
Wearing Wigs Over Locs: Proceed with Caution
Wearing wigs over locs is another styling option that some loc wearers explore, but it’s important to approach this with caution:
- Compression: Wearing a wig cap and a wig over locs can compress your locs, flattening them and potentially leading to misshapen locs over time. This compression can also cause your scalp to sweat more, which may lead to scalp issues like dandruff or fungal infections if not properly managed.
- Tension on Edges: The friction between the wig cap, the wig, and your locs can cause tension at your edges, leading to thinning or breakage. This is especially concerning if the wig is worn frequently or for long periods.
- Hygiene Concerns: If wigs are not cleaned regularly or if your locs are not properly cared for underneath the wig, you risk scalp irritation and odor. It’s essential to ensure your scalp and locs are clean and dry before putting on a wig.
If you choose to wear wigs over your locs, ensure you’re taking steps to protect your hair. Use a satin or silk wig cap to reduce friction, and avoid wearing wigs for extended periods. Regularly give your locs and scalp time to breathe to prevent any adverse effects.
Styling your locs can be a fun and expressive part of your hair journey, but it’s important to balance style with the health of your hair. Understanding the specific needs of your locs at each stage—whether starter or mature—will help you make informed decisions about which styles are appropriate and how to maintain them properly.
Whether you have microlocs, loc extensions, or traditional locs, avoiding practices like braiding over locs or wearing wigs for long periods is crucial to maintaining the health of your hair. By following these guidelines and embracing the natural beauty of your locs, you can keep them looking great while ensuring they stay healthy and strong for years to come.